Cosmetic cellulose thickeners

Cellulose Thickener: After dissolving or dispersing in water, it can increase the viscosity of the liquid and maintain the relative stability of the system. The molecular structure contains many hydrophilic groups, such as -OH, -NH2, -COOH, -COO, etc., which can hydrate with water molecules to form high-viscosity macromolecular solutions. Thickeners play an important role in cosmetics. , with the functions of thickening, emulsifying, suspending and stabilizing.

Since the functional groups on the polymer chain are generally not single, the thickening mechanism is usually one thickener with several thickening mechanisms.

Chain entanglement and thickening: After the polymer is put into the solvent, the polymer chains are curled and entangled with each other. At this time, the viscosity of the solution increases. After neutralization with alkali or organic amine, the negative charge has strong water solubility, which makes the polymer chain easier to unfold. , so as to achieve an increase in viscosity.

Covalent cross-linking and thickening: Covalent cross-linking is the periodic embedding of bifunctional monomers that can react with two polymer chains, linking the two polymers together, which significantly changes the properties of the polymer. Certain suspension ability.

Associative thickening: It is a kind of hydrophobic water-soluble polymer, which has the characteristics of type surfactants. The concentration of the polymer in water increases the intermolecular association, and interacts with the hydrophobic group of the polymer in the presence of the surfactant. Thus, mixed micelles of surfactant and polymer hydrophobic groups are formed, thereby increasing the solution viscosity.

According to water solubility, it can be divided into: water-soluble thickener, micropowder thickener.

According to the source of thickener, it can be divided into: natural thickener, synthetic thickener.

According to the use, it can be divided into: water-based thickener, oil-based thickener, acid thickener, alkaline thickener.

Classification

category

raw material name

water soluble thickener

Organic Natural Thickener

Hyaluronic acid, polyglutamic acid, xanthan gum, starch, guar gum, agar, sclerotium gum, sodium alginate

, Gum Arabic, Crinkle Carrageenan, Gellan Gum.

Organic semi-synthetic thickener

Sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, propylene glycol alginate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch ether, sodium starch phosphate, acetyl distarch phosphate, phosphorylated distarch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch Propyl Distarch Phosphate

organic synthetic thickener

Carbopol, polyethylene glycol, polyvinyl alcohol

Micropowder thickener

Inorganic micropowder thickener

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Silica, Bentonite

Modified inorganic micropowder thickener

Modified fumed silica, serratium chloride bentonite

Organic Differential Thickener

 1. Natural water-soluble thickener

Starch: It can form a gel in hot water, and it can be hydrolyzed into dextrin first, then into maltose and finally into glucose. Adhesives and thickeners.

Xanthan Gum: easily soluble in cold and hot water, has ionic resistance, and has a pseudoplastic shearing viscosity that reduces but can be recovered. It is often used as a thickener in facial masks, essences, toners and other water preparations, with a smooth skin feel , avoid using in combination with quaternary ammonium salt preservatives.

Sclerotinia gel: 100% natural gel, the solution of sclerodextran has special stability at high temperature, has good applicability in a wide pH range, and has great effect on various electrolytes in solution. Tolerance, the solution has a high degree of pseudoplasticity, the viscosity of the solution does not change much with the rise and fall of temperature, and it has a certain moisturizing effect and good skin feel. It is often used in masks and essences.

Guar Gum: It is completely soluble in cold and hot water, but insoluble in oils, greases, hydrocarbons, ketones and esters. It can be dispersed in hot or cold water to form a viscous liquid, the viscosity of an aqueous solution with a mass fraction of 1% is 3~5Pa s, and the solution is generally impermeable.

Sodium alginate: The viscosity is stable when pH=6-9, alginic acid can form colloidal precipitation with calcium ions, and alginate gel can be precipitated in an acidic environment.

Carrageenan: Carrageenan has good ion resistance and is not susceptible to enzymatic degradation like cellulose derivatives.

 2. Semi-synthetic water-soluble thickener

Methylcellulose: MC, swells into a clear or slightly turbid colloidal solution in water. To dissolve methylcellulose, first disperse it in a certain amount of water below the gel temperature, and then add cold water.

Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose: HPMC is a non-ionic thickener, which swells into a clear or slightly turbid colloidal solution in cold water. The conditioner has a synergistic effect and can effectively improve the wet combing performance. The alkali can speed up its dissolution rate and slightly increase the viscosity. Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose is stable to general salts, but when the concentration of the salt solution is high, the hydroxypropyl methylcellulose is stable. The viscosity of methyl cellulose solution tends to increase.

Sodium carboxymethyl starch: CMC-Na, when the degree of substitution is greater than 0.5, it is easily soluble in water to form a transparent colloid; CMC with a degree of substitution less than 0.5 is insoluble in water, but soluble in alkaline aqueous solution. It exists in aggregate form with high viscosity. As the temperature increases, the viscosity decreases. When the pH is 5-9, the viscosity of the solution is stable; when the pH is less than 3, hydrolysis occurs at the same time as precipitation; when the pH is greater than 10, the viscosity decreases slightly. The viscosity of CMC solution is also reduced by the action of microorganisms. The introduction of calcium ions into the CMC aqueous solution will cause turbidity, and the addition of high-valent metal ions such as Fe3+ and Al3+ can cause CMC to precipitate or form gels. Generally, the paste is relatively rough.

Hydroxyethylcellulose: HEC, thickening agent, suspending agent. Provides good rheology, film-forming and moisturizing properties. High stability, sticky skin feel, and very good ion resistance. Generally, it is recommended to disperse in cold water and then heat and stir to dissolve homogeneously.

PEG-120 Methyl Gluconate Dioleate: Specially used as a thickener for shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, hand soaps, children's washing products, and tear-free shampoos. It is more effective for some harder-to-thicken surfactants, and PEG-120 methylglucodioleate is not irritating to eyes, which is extremely ideal for baby shampoos and cleansers, in shampoos, facial cleansers, AOS, AES sodium salt, sulfosuccinic acid ester salt and amphoteric surfactant used in the shower gel have good compounding and thickening effect, and Jiaduohui jelly should be paid attention to.

 3. Organic synthetic thickener

Carbopol 940

Short rheology, high viscosity, high clarity, low ionic resistance and shear resistance, suitable for gels and creams

Carbopol 941

Long rheology, low viscosity, high clarity, moderate ionic and shear resistance, suitable for gels and emulsions

Carbopol ETD 2020, Acrylate

/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Cross-Chain Copolymer

Long rheology, low viscosity, high clarity, high ionic and shear resistance, suitable for clear gels

SF-1

Liquid, long rheological properties, can be formulated into clear formulations, has excellent compatibility with a variety of ingredients, and thickens with acid, and can be used in surfactant systems.

Carbopol Ultrez 21, Acrylate

/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Cross-Chain Copolymer

Short rheology, used in gels, detergents, high electrolyte products, creams, lotions.

Carbopol Ultrez 20, Acrylate

/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Cross-Chain Copolymer

Long Rheology, Shampoo, Body Gel, Cream

Pemulen TR-1, Acrylate

/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Cross-Chain Copolymer

Thickening emulsifier, short rheology, for creams, lotions

Pemulen TR-2, Acrylate

/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Cross-Chain Copolymer

Thickening emulsifier, long rheology, for emulsions

Carbopol 980

Very short rheology; high viscosity; high clarity; low ionic resistance; low shear resistance; high yield value (suspendability)

Carbomer U30

Thickening effect, electrolyte resistance, easy to use, efficient handling and production, can be used in mildly acidic formulations

Sodium polyacrylate: high molecular weight, and electrolyte, the aqueous solution has high viscosity, good rheology, and has a stringiness, and the skin feels extremely smooth, which can be used in human body lubricants.

Novethix™ L-10: A highly efficient hydrophobically modified, alkali-swellable emulsion polymer used in most cleaning formulations containing anionic, nonionic and zwitterionic surfactants. Works synergistically with electrolytes, is an easy-to-use, cold-processable liquid, and synergistically thickens with salt.

Clariant AVC: gelling agent for clear systems and thickener for oil-in-water emulsions. The polymer is pre-neutralized, easy to use, gives excellent formulation performance, and is stable even without emulsifiers. The skin feels more watery and ion-intolerant, and the addition amount is 0.5-1.2%.

Sepinov EMT 10: Pre-neutralized, easy to use and stable. Room temperature operation. The new two-in-one powdery polymer is suitable for a wide range of pH values (pH=3-10). Emulsifier-free cream-like gel can be made, and the paste produced has better provocation and no stringing.

SEPIMAX™ ZEN: A polyelectrolyte polymer with a very high association, which can resist the damage caused by electrolytes to the formulation to the greatest extent, and has good suspension stability, suitable for transparent systems containing particles, superfluid and cream various formulations such as gels.

Polyethylene glycol-90M: Improve the dry combing of shampoo, reduce the effect of shampoo and fruit jelly, and improve the stability of soap-based facial cleanser, but it will reduce the bacteriostatic effect of some preservatives, and it is not compatible with some pigments.

638 thickener: PEG-150 distearate, a kind of high molecular nonionic surfactant, can be dissolved in water after heating, recommended concentration: 0.1-0.3% of shampoo dosage, if the added amount is too high, it will cause jelly, Note.

Aristoflex SILK: Silky smooth skin feel, super salt resistance, improve the discoloration problem of the formula, 1% can reach 20,000 viscosity, with its excellent salt resistance and silk-like high-quality skin experience, the skin feels silky.

GT-730: High elasticity transparent gel thickener, non-ionic thickener, will turn white at high temperature, and restore transparency after cooling down, add 5% to form gel, can be used as pigskin jelly mask, solid spray mask.

Aristoflex BLV: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/beheneth-25 methacrylate cross-linked polymer, non-sticky, suitable for low viscosity systems, high transparency, strong suspending ability, can be used as solid water spray , adding EDTA-2na will not reduce the transparency.

Thickener EG-605: Shanghai Longxin domestic EG, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, isohexadecane, laureth-7, regardless of its HLB value, it can be Other emulsifiers are compounded or used alone to prepare various skin care creams, cream gels and other products. The thickening ability is more than twice that of ordinary imported 305, and the phenomenon of "rubbing mud" will not occur. It can obviously overcome the phenomenon of "rubbing mud" caused by imported 305 during use.

SP-7 Suspension-stabilizing skin feel agent: Shanghai Longxin domestic carb, acrylic acid (ester)/C12-22 alkanol methacrylate copolymer, its volume increases from powder to neutralized polymer gel 1000 times, the consistency of the 0.5% aqueous solution can reach 80,000 to 120,000 cps. Even when it encounters electrolytes, although the viscosity will decrease, its suspending force will have little effect. Add "alkali" to neutralize it. The PH is thickened, the skin feels more refreshing than ordinary carbs, and the hands are instantly hydrated when applied.

Sabic Emulsifier 305: has a strong gel ability; excellent emulsifying function; excellent stabilization; extremely simple to use. It has the functions of thickening, gelling, emulsifying, stabilizing and adsorbing emulsifier with superior performance

305 has excellent gel properties, only 2% of the amount used can make 98% of deionized water almost completely lose its flow ability, with strong thickening ability, 2% diluent viscosity is greater than 100000 (mpa.S) . The thickening principle is very unique. It thickens through the action of intermolecular and intramolecular molecular forces, rather than the thickening principle of general thickeners.

EG thickener: Similar to 305, the skin feels more refreshing and the price is cheaper than 305.

 4. Micropowder thickener

The particle size is very small, and the space network is formed by connecting in the liquid phase. Generally, the surface is highly hydrophilic, and the surface hydrophobic modification is generally used for oil thickening.

Magnesium aluminum silicate: It is insoluble in water and forms a colloidal dispersion solution in water. The process of dispersion and gelation is similar to that of sodium magnesium silicate, and it has the characteristics of layered silicate. It has high thixotropy and plasticity values, and its sol will also form a "carton box" structure, which can effectively suspend and stabilize the emulsion. It is compatible with most cosmetic raw materials and with other water-soluble polymers (such as carboxymethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, guar gum and non-ionic cellulose). The tolerance to electrolytes is also high, and its sol-stabilized pH range is 3.5 to 11. It imparts a smooth, non-stick, non-greasy and good appearance to the final product and increases its dispersibility. It has good compatibility with natural rubber and synthetic rubber, and can improve the structure of the paste.

Lithium Magnesium Silicate: It has good water dispersibility, thixotropy, thickening and other properties. It can quickly expand in water, can be well dispersed in water, and hydrate and expand to form a translucent-transparent thixotropic gel , 2.5% water dispersion viscosity > 800mpa.s. At the same time, it has great tolerance to electrolyte and good colloidal stability.

Slaronium Chloride Bentonite: Colorless oil can be made into a colorless gel, adding at least 10%, and it can also be mixed into shampoo to increase detergency and neutralize calcium salts in water. A kind of hydrophobic and lipophilic bentonite, because it not only has the excellent swelling, adsorption and dispersibility of inorganic bentonite, but also has a huge hydrophobic and lipophilic specific surface area, and has good affinity and compatibility with organic matter. It is widely used in various organic systems.

Microcrystalline cellulose: used as anticaking agent, emulsifier, dispersant, adhesive, tablet press and tissue modifier, etc. It can be dispersed in water and can absorb water and swell.

Silica: Spherical and porous, with soft focus effect, silky skin; high oil absorption, long-lasting makeup fixation, etc. The surface of hydrophobic fumed silica is treated with oil phase, which is especially suitable for thickening oily systems and improving the product's performance. The coating type can reduce the heavy and greasy feeling after application of oily systems.